UPDATE: OK so I guess this method doesn't work. If you want to give it a shot, feel free. Also, I did wuite a lot of work on this, so if you want my work from playing with the firmware, let me know. The rest of the article is from when I first wrote it thinking it would work.

-----------------

OK, well after months of hard work, I decided the best way to make NetBeer is really just modifying some settings and spitting out flash images. lol NetBeer is now just a fancy word for the stock firmware that allows Serial, SSH, and Telnet access, but will never check for firmware updates. This means that you have complete access to your modem except for the elusive USB host port that doesn't ever seem to have firmware that supports it. It has its driver and MAC address, but it doesn't work even with that. You'll never loose any console access unless you change it back to allow firmware updates. It'll work on any cable provider's system as this is the stock firmware that comes with the unit. (Hence, stock, as it comes with the unit, it's stock. lol OK, I just felt like making that sentence even more redundant. )

Now, on with the show. Below is the tutorial on how to get it on your unit and attached is the archive with the image and software that you'll need. The project requires you to buy a USB JTAG NT device, though.

On a side note, your cfg image is where your mac addresses, serial number, and root cable certificate are stored. Keep your cfg partition in tact.

PREREQUISITES:
In order to install this firmware, you'll need to buy a USB JTAG NT adapter and be comfortable soldering to your modem's board.
If you can't do this or ather have me do it, I will install the firmware for you for a service fee and I'll also need the return
shipping costs as well as a waiver stating that I'm not liable for any damages. I accept paypal for payment, or you can send a money
order for the correct amount agreed upon after discussing this with me. I need to solder a connector to your board to install it
and that takes about 20-30 minutes as they're small peices.

Contact me on this page: http://thelifemaster.com/Main/Contact

If that link doesn't work, go to http://thelifemaster.com and look for the contact link.


INSTALLATION:

DO NOT DO THIS AT 2AM! (Unless your coaxial cable is unplugged.) If you do it at 2AM, your modem might try to pull new firmware
before you have a change to block it.

1.) Follow the tutorial on the link below in order to JTAG your CG3000D or CG3100D unit.
http://thelifemaster.com/Main/Blog&ShowPost=347&postname=Here-s-how-to-JTAG-the-CG3000D-to-change-your-firmware

If that link is down, look at the guide on this one.
http://www.usbjtag.com/jtagnt/modem/CG3100D.php

2.) Now we need to install the CG3000D XML file. The USB JTAG NT software is included in this archive, but requires
registration with http://www.usbjtag.com and you get thefree registration info after you buy the required hardware. Install
that software and open the program files directory for usbjtagnt. Open the config directory in there and copy the XML file
to that directory.

3.) After you install your USB JTAG NT properly and have the unit connected to the board, open the software and on the config
screen, select Modem -> SPIFLASH -> CG3000DSPI and click OK. Click the ID button on your software to detect the chip. It
should say the following in the Output tab.

-flshdct 0
Found Address= 00000000 25FL064A

If not, check the wires. See the tutorial above for more help or contact me.

4.) Now go to the AllFlash tab and click the read button that's next to the button that says ID. It should read all the data
from the chip, onto your screen. Be sure to back up the data from each tab. (You really only need the AllFlash tab backed up,
but it makes it more convienient to have a copy of each section of the ROM.)

5.) Keep the read data in the software and then switch to the Image0 tab. In the left pane of the software is a way to browse
for another directory. Browse for the directory with the Image1.bin file in it from this archive. Now in the lower part of the
pane, you'll see Image1.bin. Double click that and it will fill the Image0.bin with the contents of that file.

6.) Switch to the Image1 tab and double click Image1.bin to fill Image1 with that data as well. This makes both images the same.

7.) Go to the AllFlash tab and click the write button at the top. Write the data to the chip and then when it says "Program pass"
at the bottom, you can unplug the modem, then the USB cable from the computer, then disconnect the USB JTAG NT device from the modem.

8.) Plug your modem back in and while its booting up, install PuTTY and run it. Click the SSH radio button for the connection type
and enter 192.168.0.1 for the Host Name/IP. Make sure its at port 22 and then type a name in "Saved Sessions" and then click "Save."

9.) Before opening the SSH console, you'll need to go to 192.168.0.1 and log in as user MSO with password changeme. Go to the "Remote
management" tab on the side and make sure that "through LAN interface" is checked under the Telnet and SSH options at the bottom.
Click apply.

10.) Now open PuTTY and double click your saved session. It will open a console window. Enter MSO for the user and changeme for the
pass. You'll see the prompt show up. Type the following commands.

cd /non-vol/snmp_cm
max_dload_tries 0

The default is 4 for max_dload_tries, but setting it to 0 will disable it from getting firmware updates that lock your modem down. You
can copy and pase the lines above. Just copy 3 lines including the blank line after max_dload_tries 0 and it will automatically execute
that for you. I don't think you need to reboot, but now you have permanant SSH, Telnet, and Serial port access. The USB Hub I couldn't
get to work. Sorry.

Download NetBeer




Keywords: NetBeer, download, CG3000D, firmware, console access

I think I found out an easy way to make NetBeer work! I'm no longer trying to compile firmware for it, but the point of NetBeer was to allow console access, USB host port access, and not allow the cable company's software to be downloaded to replace NetBeer.

Console access - Check! Serial port, Telnet, and SSH are all enabled in the stock firmware.

No firmware downloading to the unit to replace NetBeer - Check! It took me a bit, but as dload allows your modem to start pulling new firmware, I needed to disable it. I logged into the serial console and did:

cd /non-vol/snmp_cm
max_dload_tries 0

max_dload_tries was originally set to 4, but in setting it to 0, it disables dload altogether. I tested it by doing dload and it says that its max tries were exceeded.

USB host port access - This one is the last bit to do and it has a mac address and a driver on the stock firmware. I need to figure out how to make it fully work, though.


After I make the USB host port work, then I'll release NetBeer as a flashable image via USB JTAG NT. I'll provide a tutorial and I'll also be allowing people to send me their units to flash it on there for them for a $20 service fee and return shipping. I'll also require a waiver to be signed to say that I'm not responsible for any damages. This way people who don't know how to flash it on, can have me do it for them.

I also made the firmware the commercial version using rg_mode_switch.




Keywords: NetBeer, release

Many people have been wondering how to change the firmware on their CG3000D modem so you can get it out of lock down. This is a very popular modem and much like the CG3100D modem as well. I made more progress in this area as it seems that there are a lot of people interested in this, but no one seems to want to build new firmware to unlock the USB host port or other features that companies don't feel like supporting.

Well, now I figured out the means to update the firmware and it can't be locked down by the companies. JTAG (Actually SPI programming in this case) is where you're talking directly to the flash chip and you can erase it and program it. This is programming at the hardware level. No software can stop that.

So, I made a tutorial on how to change the firmware, but the thing is, I haven't yet made the firmware to replace it with. It'll be called NetBeer and its a pun. As NetGear made the unit and they open sourced their firmware, its licensed under the GNU GPL. (Gnu software is free as in free beer. NOTE: I just went to their site and they apparently now want it thought of as "Free speech" instead of as "Free beer" like they used to say.) Anyway, that's the pun. NetBeer will also be open sourced under the GNU GPL.

I'm looking for programmers who want to help develop the NetBeer software. Now that I finished procuring the means to get the software loaded onto the unit, the next stage is to create a successful compile of the NetGear release. Here's the link to the page for the firmware I'm basing NetBeer off of.

http://kb.netgear.com/app/answers/detail/a_id/…gpl-open-source-code-for-programmers

NetBeer will be to the CG3000D, as DD-WRT is to routers. It should be a sight to "beer-hold!" After we create a successful NetGear build and successfully JTAG it onto the unit, the next step is building NetBeer and JTAGing that on. When its finished, I'll create a forum for NetBeer and people can get help with the software, learn how to add it to their modems.

If they can't do it their self, they can hire myself and anyone else who's interested, to add it to their modem. They'll need to mail a form with it stating that they will not hold the technician accountable for any damages from adding the firmware to their modems. Plus, we'll sell modems with NetBeer preloaded onto them. Get them from the website or from eBay. Anyone can sell them as long as they say they aren't affiliated with the NetBeer programmers if they aren't. NetBeer programmers can show that they are part of the team to add credibility to their sale.

OK, so now for the fun part...

TUTORIAL

After months of hard work and spending over $100 to try different things, I learned how to JTAG my CG3000D.
I'll show you how so you don't have to fumble around in the dark like I was.

CREDITS:

1.) Myself (Na'ven)
2.) USBBDM from usbjtag.com (He helped me figure out how to set up the wiring.)
3.) CAPONE from usbjtag.com (He gave me advice and things to try.)

TECHNICAL NOTES:

1.) The CG3000D uses SPI Flash, So, its a SPI core, not MIPS EJTAG as I originally thought.

REQUIRED EQUIPMENT:

1.) Soldering iron and solder (Get one on eBay or at Radio Shack. Weller is a popular brand.)
2.) USB JTAG NT (Buy that at http://usbjtag.com/zenshop/index.php/…ducts_id=9)
3.) Wire (I used a 14 conductor (wire) ribbon cable)
4.) Multimeter (Optional, but HIGHLY reccomended)
5.) The CG3000D or the CG3100D
6.) A USB type A to USB type B adapter cable. USB JTAG NT doesn't come with a USB cable.

NOTE: USB JTAG NT comes with a header and as well as its own software. (Included in the archive) We'll be using those in this tutorial.

WIRING IT UP:

1.) Open this page: http://www.usbjtag.com/jtagnt/modem/CG3100D.php

2.) On the page above, you'll see that its for the CG3100D. That model is much like the CG3000D and it uses the same chips, so we'll be using that tutorial. In case the page ever gets removed, I added a backup of that page in the the archive for this tutorial.

3.) Begin soldering wires to the pins shown on the page above. Notice that there are 2 chips at play here. The one listed as having an ISP pin is in the same place on the CG3000D as it is on the pictures on that page. There are two chips circled in red. Notice that the flash chip is

4.) Once you finish soldering all the wires to the board and preferably have checked that they don't bridge with any other pins or components, you can solder the olter ends of the wires to the appropriate pins on the header that came with your USB JTAG NT. Take note of the position of pin 1 on the header. When you connect the header to USB JTAG NT, look for the arrow on its connector. The arrow on the connector will show you where pin 1 is.

I included the numbered pinout for USB JTAG NT in the archive as well. Be sure to solder the wires to the short leads on the header.

5.) Unplug your modem from its power.

6.) Connect USB JTAG NT to the header you just soldered all your wires to, making sure that you have pin 1 in the right place. (If you did what I did and used two connectors connected by a header, you'll need to make sure that you twist the wires in twos before adding the connector to your modem's ribbon cable. That way you can line up pin 1 (red wire) on both headers and connect them without the rows being reversed. See the pictures for a picture of what I mean.)

7.) Connect the USB cable to USB JTAG NT and then to your computer.

SOFTWARE

1.) Install the drivers included in the archive if windows doesn't automatically install them.

2.) Install the USB JTAG NT software from this archive.

3.) Run Start -> All Programs -> usbjtag -> UJmodem

4.) Click the "system" tab and you'll see the activation screen. Your hardware ID should be showing. Type in your email address from when you ordered your USB JTAG NT and send an email to the email address you were sent to get your activation code. Include the hardware ID shown on that screen. When you recieve your activation code, type that into the activation code box on that screen. Select the target as anything you'd like. We're just activating it for now. After that, click OK and close that program.

5.) Run Start -> All Programs -> usbjtag -> USBJTAG NT

6.) Change the category and change it back to "Modem" and then select the "SPIFLASH" protocol. Select CG3100DSPI under target select. Check "Register view" and click OK.

7.) Now you should see the main program. Click the button at the top that says "ID" and it should detect your flash properly. Below is an example of a proper flash detect.

-flshdct 0
Found Address= 00000000 25FL064A

Below is an example of an improper flash detect.

-flshdct 0
Unknown flash type!
Report these values http://www.usbjtag.com/vbforum 00,00,00

8.) When you have a proper flash detect, you need to click the "AllFlash" tab and then click the button to the right of the "ID" button you just hit. It should say "R" and have an arrow pointing right. Click it and it will read everything from your chip. It'll take a few seconds and show a progress bar before spilling its contents to the screen.

9.) Now you'll want to backup your chip, so click save and save it as something like CG3000D_Original.bin

10.) Verify that there's actually data in that file. This way you know for a fact that its a good backup. To do that, install HxD (Included in the archive) and open it. In HxD, open the bin file you just saved. If it has FF FF FF all over the entire page, or 00 00 00, then you'll need to back it up again before erasing your chip. If it has FF FF FF in only some places, but it has many other values as well, then you're good to go. When you have a proper backup, move on to the next step.

11.) I can't include a copy of my firmware as it has my MAC address in it, so you'll want to write the firmware you just backed up, to the modem instead. Open the file you just saved as your backup. Click the "W" button that has an arrow pointing left. That will start the write process.

12.) When it finishes writing, diconnect the power to the modem, then the USB cable from the computer, and then disconnect the JTAG connection. Do it in that order so you don't risk damaging your modem. Connect the power to the modem and see if you can go online. If you can, then you're good to go and you finished this tutorial.



FIRMWARE PROGRAMMING

People have been looking for firmware for this unit to enable that USB feature and I still plan on making NetBeer, my own custom firmware for this modem. It'll stop network pushed firmware, allow you to have console access, and also have the USB Host finally activated at long last. I'll change the interface to look better and I'll only add features, not take them away. Plus, you'll have SSH, Telnet, and Serial port access again in case you want to use those instead. If you'd like to help me build it, please let me know. You'll need to have completed this tutorial, though.


DOWNLOAD TUTORIAL: http://thelifemaster.com/Main/uploads/CG3000D-JTAG.zip




Keywords: CG3000D, USB JTAG NT, firmware, tutorial

Hey, I spent a couple days playing with the console port, also known as the TTL serial port, on the CG3000D modem router combo unit. I wanted to post my findings and this info might be the same for the CG3000, CD3100, and CG3100D gateways as well, but I don't know as I don't have those. From what I've read, the CG3000D should be similar to the CG3100 style units and the "D" in the name signifies that its an ISP supported model.

I'm hoping this helps people to play with their ports again (lol) and start making some more quality firmware for the CG3000D units as well. I plan on making Netbeer soon and I need to make sure I have the mechanics down on how I plan on flashing that firmware to this unit before I spend time programming it. Just now I finished playing with the TTL serial port and found that the firmware blocked that port so I can't use it for anything other than seeing the boot sequence, so soon I'll have my USB JTAG NT unit here and I'll be able to use the 14 pin MIPS EJTAG port to play with flashing the firmware.

If you're interested in my findings, I posted the information below and also a link to download the files required for playing with your ports. This is rare information that I really had to dig for and experiment with in order to discover. So, I hope people can now find this information easier. As always, contact me if you have questions and I'll see what I can do.

Stock CG3000Ds allow access to the serial port.

Download the tutorial and the files: http://thelifemaster.com/Main/uploads/TTL-Serial-Port-CG3000D.zip

----

This is a collection of data I found out about the CG3000D's console port/TTL serial port while trying to access it. I wrote this document to help people no matter what your knowledge is on this. I didn't assume you knew much of anything I'm talking about in this document. Keep in mind that this is meant for technicians to work with, but I know that some techs might not be hardware techs or know every single term. I was programming for years and flunked a basic computer class in college because I didn't know the terminology. I just knew how to make it work.

So, again, this is meant for techs and if you do connect to the serial port properly and can type commands, be sure you know what you;re ding or you could frazzle your unit into a bright shiny new doorstop until you get your JTAG tools. (AKA Brick)


Firmware version: V5.5.3.mp1CPR07c (Supplied by Cox Cable as an update that my gateway installed automatically.)

Status: You get a readout of the boot process and then it closes the port so you can't access it. (I included the log for that.)

Theory: Using USB JTAG NT, I should be able to flash the unit with my new firmware and that will have the console port open again.

Requirements for talking to the port on the CG3000D:

1.) USB to UART TTL Serial port adapter. (It cost me $5 on eBay and I included a picture and its driver. Just search up "USB ttl serial" and find one like mine. It needs a 3.3V pin, not a 5v pin.)
2.) USB extension cord (Optional, but if you might want one as the ribbon cable on mine is about 12" long.)
3.) T7 or T7H Torx bit or a small flat head screwdriver. lol I use a T7H and I think the "H" stands for hole since mine are made to have a post in the middle of the screw. I used a small flathead on it as well and its fine.
4.) CG3000D (If you want to be obvious)
5.) PuTTY (Included in this archive)

Setup

1.) Install PuTTY (Use the one included or get the latest version if need be, from http://chiark.greenend.org.uk/~sgtatham/putty/…download.html)

2.) Open your gateway (modem/router combo or CG3000D if you will) by disconnecting every cord from it and flipping it over, then pulling its feet off. The rubbers are held on by a strip of rubber going through a hole. They should pull off with little force. Then just unscrew the 6 screws and open the case gently, but don't remove the board yet.

3.) The board is held onto one half of the case by a wire going to the WiFi antenna. If you need to remove the extra plastic part to make things easier, pull back the tape on the main board and un snap the wire from there. It connects like a laptop wifi antenna does.

4.) Look at the side of the board with the components mounted to it. Turn the board so the ports are facing upwards and look to the right of the big black heatsink on the chipset. (Its a BCM3380 Broadcom chip if you want to know.) See the 4 pin header? That's the TTL serial port, also called the console port. It looks like 4 metal prongs sticking up.

5.) Now break out your USB to UART TTL serial port adapter and its cable. If you're working with the same hardware I was, then take the jumper off of the using as its not needed. Put it in a plastic bag so you don't loose it.

6.) Now look at the pinouts included in this zip file. The green pinout is the pinout for the board and the one called "adapter pinout.jpg" is of course the one for the adapter. If you're using a different adapter, rely on the pinout supplied by the adapter you're using.
7.) Hook up the ribbon cable wires to the adapter.

8.) Find pin 1 of the 4 pin header on your gateway by looking at the bottom of the board (side without the components on it) and finding the square solder point. You'll see the rest are all circles. Be sure to look only at the part for the 4 pin header, not the square part for the 14 pin MIPS EJTAG header next to it.

9.) Now that you know which way is up, or rather which pin is pin 1, look at the pinout for the board I provided you with. Hook the proper wires up to the 4 pin header WHILE THE UnIT IS OFF. It should be off right now, but it doesn't work like an ethernet port or usb port where you can just plug it in and unplug it. You need to boot it up with it plugged in and turn off the unit before unplugging it or you could frazzel the unit.

10.) Now, check your work. Make sure that the 3.3V pin on the adapter goes to the 3.3V pin on the board, the TX goes to the TX pin, RX to RX, GND (ground) goes to ground. The TX could also be labeled TXD for transmission Data and RX could be RXD for Receiver Data. If your ribbon cable is multicoloured, then just make sure the colors go to the right place, but if its just grey or something, be sure you follow it closely.

11.) Plug your USB extension cable into the adapter, then your USB port if you opted to use one.

12.) Now, Windows should start trying to find the driver for your unit. If you have your own driver, you can use that one of course and if you have the same hardware as I did, Windows 7 says that it can't find the driver and then it says that it found something that could help you. (I think it was the troubleshooter or something that opened automagically, but I don't remember.) It will give you the direct link to the download. If you need the driver and are using the same unit that I am, I included a driver for you. However you install the driver, make sure its installed.

13.) Open Device manager and under "Ports (COM and LPT)" you need to find the item listed for your unit and open it. We'll need to change some settings on the "port settings" page.

14.) Launch PuTTY.

15.) Now both PuTTY and the port settings in Device Manager must match and I'll tell you how. In device manager, on the "port settings" tab for your adapter, you're going to want to click the advanced button and uncheck the FIFO buffer option if its on there. I don't know if the advanced button will show for all units or not, but if its not there, skip this step. Also, make a note of the Com number. Mine is COM3.

16.) Set the port settings in Device manager to:

Speed: 115200
Data bits: 8
Stop bits: 1
Parity: None
Flow control: None

17.) In PuTTY, on the first screen you see, select "serial" in the radio boxes. (The circle select boxes)

18.) In the box that says COM1, change that to whatever COM number you saw in Device Manager above.

19.) Change the 9600 to 115200.

20.) Enter a name for your stored settings in the "Saved Sessions" box and hit save.

21.) Go to Connections -> Serial on the tree at the left.

22.) Set "Flow Control" to "none" and the rest of the settings should match the ones set above in Device Manager.

23.) Go back to "Session" in the tree at the left and hit save again.

24.) Now this is where the fun begins. Connect the power cord to the modem and make sure the power button is turned on as well then QUICKLY double click the name of the saved session in PuTTY.

25.) You'll see a black console box come up and the boot sequence will show on the screen. If its gibberish that comes up, change the baud rate to something like 9600 on both Device Manager and PuTTY.

26.) If you get the following text at the end, then the port is disabled in the firmware.

"[tStartup] BcmEpsCmDocsisSystem::Initialize: (BFC System) ERROR - Disable console port now!"

27.) If you didn't get that message, try talking to the port. type a command and see what pops up, but BE CAREFUL! God only knows what happens if you type "clear." For all I know, it could wipe your firmware and then bye bye gateway, hello comfortable reality. lol (Dreamfall quote) Also, tftp_read and tftp_write only allow for tftp on the HFC side. (This means you need a $5,000 CMTS to connect to the cable on your modem in order to pull firmware to your modem. I think I fancy my $60 USB JTAG NT a bit more.

If you want to pull new firmware from the cmts, then use cd /docsis_ctl and then use dload. You'll need to know the name of the firmware the cable company is sending to you. Flash the stock firmware onto your modem and change its mac_addresses to the mac_addresses for your modem and change its serial number to your serial number. Keep the config in tact for your modem as it has the root certificate. You'll need to then use PuTTY with logging enabled and connect via SSH using the user/pass MSO/changeme. Leave your computer and modem on overnight and at around 2AM-3AM, you'll most likely get the new firmware pulled to your modem. Check the log and you'll find the server sending you the file as well as the filename. If the server is 172.23.0.18 and your file is filename.bin, then do this: dload -s -l 172.23.0.18 filename.bin and you'll start pulling it down from the CMTS.


CG3000D/DocsisCtl> dload

COMMAND: dload

USAGE: dload [-i Number] [-s] [-l] [-f] [IpAddress] [Filename{127}]

DESCRIPTION:
Causes the CM DOCSIS Control thread to download and store the specified image
file via TFTP from the specified TFTP Server IP address. When the download
is completed, the next reboot will run this image. If you omit the filename
and/or IP address parameters, then we will use the ones stored in non-vol
settings. The -i parameter specifies the image number to be overwritten
(number of images depends on the platform). If omitted then the default
image for the platform will be used. If present, the -s causes Secure
Download to be used. The -l flag selects image1 as the target and allows a
large image to be loaded, if allowed by the flash driver. The -f flag forces
the image to be loaded even if the signature or compression types are not
valid for the platform.

EXAMPLES:
dload 11.24.4.3 ram_sto.bin -- TFTPs ram_sto.bin from the server.
dload -i1 11.24.4.3 ram_sto.bin -- Same, but downloads to image1.
dload -- Uses the file/server from non-vol
settings.
dload -s 11.24.4.3 ram_sto.bin -- Secure download.
dload -l 11.24.4.3 ram_sto.bin -- Download large image to image1.
dload -f 11.24.4.3 ram3360_sto.bin -- Loads a 3360 image onto a 3345 modem.





Also, here's a pinout of the port if you're interested.






Keywords: cg3000, cg3000d, cg3100, cg3100d, serial port, ttl, com port, modem, router, gateway, uart, usb, mips, jtag, tftp, firmware, pinout

I heal people all the time and over the years I've improved my technique. Whenever I use this method, the person is almost guaranteed to be healed immensely. I want to teach it to you so you can heal yourself and others and stay safe in the process. So, here's the method I use.

1.) I bilocate next to them. As long as I have knowledge of someone, I can bilocate next to them. Basically, you just picture being in the room with the person and seeing them in a bed.

2.) I take note of how things look. I can see if there is anything off beat in the area and I can intuitively know what everything does or if its healthy to have it there. I can see if any negative beings are there as well.

3.) I then demand that all negative beings and energy leave the person as its not of their wish to have them around them or interacting with them in any way. As they are 4D beings, they are bound by the physics of 4D and they cannot impede your free will. That being said, when you demand that a being leaves you, they must leave you. Same thing as if the person is requesting healing, then they must leave as they do not want to be hurt by them either.

4.) I then look to see if there's an anomalous thing in the picture. These things stand out EASILY. Some things I've seen are, a rainbow orb connecting someone to their people, a black wrench that was QUITE insidious and could have easily hurt me if I didn't know what I was doing, etc.

5.) With the cause removed, I rotate the persons chakras by stroking their body up and down with energy and feeling them spin. They spin just like a roller track at an airport where you put your luggage on it and you slide it down the rollers. I speed up the stroking super fast and it creates an intense energy. I then bring in the source energy and Earth energy from the top and bottom of their body and infuse them with it. This creates a golden egg of light. This cleans them out and makes them feel intensely positive.

Helpful advice to keep you safe:

1.) Make sure that you do not interact with the scene with YOUR energy. You want to picture things happening in a state of disconnect. Your energy should never touch any part of the scene. Just like if you're picturing someone else doing something in your mind, you can picture things happening in the scene. Its a separate reality and in a state of quarantine. REMEMBER THAT. This is a SEPARATE reality, but it can cross over to YOUR reality or the other person's reality. So, be careful and operate in observer mode, but with the ability to make things happen.

2.) If you feel that something is too dangerous to handle on your own, let me know and I'll help out. As you improve your skills, you'll be able to handle more dangerous stuff on your own, but the key is to stay safe. If you get injured, someone will have to help you as well as them. It doesn't help anyone if you're injured. If I feel its too dangerous for me, I'll try to get other advanced healers to help me work on this with me and I'll picture them in the same room as I am in so we can work through it together.

3.) Before attempting your first healing, be very sure you're comfortable working with energy. Manifest that you're holding a small amount of negativity in your energy field and that its trying to attach itself to you. Keep it away from you at all costs and when you're done playing with that energy, you can transmute it into positive energy. See how close you can get it to you before you can't push it away anymore. I just tried it and I can get it up to an inch away from me before it attaches itself to me and I have to dig it out of me. With it being a small amount of negative energy, its not a problem. Just be sure you can handle one step before you try running upstairs. You don't want to wind up in a minefield and critically injured.

4.) There ARE ethric machines and other inventions the dark ones make! Be aware of this! They will have a distinct look to them that seems off beat, but even the ones that look like an ordinary item like a wrench, can cause quite a massive amount of problems for you if you don't know how to handle them. Don't take on something stronger than you are at the current time. I help everyone for free and I can help you if you are in a bind. I'm on the computer 95% of my life and I check my email every 15 minutes or so usually. I'm VERY easy to contact. I don't want you to get hurt.

5.) Remember that if you ever feel like you're threatened, you can always disconnect the transmission. DO NOT OPEN YOUR EYES TO STOP IT! If you open your eyes, you aren't guaranteeing that its disconnected from you. Its just like when someone is in front of you holding a knife and you close your eyes. You didn't stop the person with the knife, you simply closed your eyes to it. So, when you open your eyes during a transmission, it doesn't stop the transmission, it simply hides it from you. You'll want to practice creating a safe room reality and disconnecting from it as well. When you can do that safely, you can always work with that disconnect during your sessions in case something goes wrong.




Keywords: healing, reiki, negative energy, negative beings, safety, tutorial